\nPURCHASE – YOUR – TICKETS, NOW !!!!
\nGO TO:<\/p>\n
‘THREADS of POWER: LACE from the TEXTILMUSEUM ST. GALLEN’ <\/a><\/p>\n BARD GRADUATE CENTER GALLERY CURATED BY: EMMA CORMACK, associate curator, Bard Graduate Center; ILONA KOS, curator, Textilmuseum St. Gallen; and MICHELE MAJER, professor emerita, Bard Graduate Center<\/p>\n WONDERFUL, INTIMATE PRESENTATION \/ RIVETING EXAMPLES \/ CONCISE, INFORMATIVE TEXT . . !! HERE’S A LITTLE SAMPLING – FROM MY MOST LOVELY VISIT – THIS PAST SATURDAY:<\/p>\n foreground: Bonnet with reticella needle-lace & bobbin-lace inserts of geometric, vegetal, & bird motifs \/ behind: Bonnet with reticella needle-lace inserts \/ Italy \/ Second half of the 16th century \/ Linen reticella lace:<\/strong> “is a needle lace dating from the 15th century & remaining popular into the first quarter of the 17th century. originally a form of ‘cutwork’ (embroidery) in which threads were pulled from linen fabric to make a ‘grid’ \/ on which the pattern was stitched, or embroidered – primarily using the buttonhole stitch. (Wikipedia) “In the mid-sixteenth century, men’s shirts & women’s shifts acquired small standing frilled collars that often incorporated cutwork & freely formed, detached lace points. As these techniques became more elaborate, collars grew larger & more heavily decorated until, by the end of the century, they were made as separate accessories… Bobbin-lace border with rosettes, festoons, & delicate fillings mounted as a millstone collar \/ note:<\/strong> “the ruff collar<\/strong>, worn by men, women & children, evolved from the small fabric ruffle at the neck of the shirt or chemise. Ruffs served as changeable pieces of cloth that could themselves be laundered separately while keeping the wearer’s doublet or gown from becoming soiled at the neckline.” ~WIKI<\/p>\n
\n18 WEST 86th ST. NY NY 10024<\/p>\n![\"\"](\"http:\/\/www.artloversnewyork.com\/zine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/Threads-of-power-LACE-Bard-Graduate-center-Gallery.png\")
<\/a><\/p>\n
\n& A GORGEOUS, MOST GORGEOUS . . HARDCOVER CATALOG, AVAILABLE TOO.<\/p>\n![\"\"](\"http:\/\/www.artloversnewyork.com\/zine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/Bonnet-Lace-Threads-of-Power-BGCG.jpg\")
<\/a>
\nBONNETS !!<\/p>\n
\nNetherlands or western Europe \/ 1600-50 \/ Linen
\nTextilmuseum St. Gallen, Acquired from the Estate of John Jacoby, 1954, 23402<\/p>\n
\nTextilmuseum St. Galler, Acquired from the Estate of John Jacoby, 1954, 00813<\/p>\n![\"\"](\"http:\/\/www.artloversnewyork.com\/zine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/early-bonnet-with-lace-inserts-BGCG.jpg\")
<\/a>
\nthe (short) bonnet in the front was interesting, because it could ‘extend’, or be pulled way forward, with all those folds pf extra fabric \/ to shade your face; but the bonnet with the long ‘ties’ – to the back of the photo, really, really fascinated me \/ it reminded me of a modern day . . hoodie !! <\/strong>
\nyou could just imagine pulling your head way deep into its ‘cap’, and then ‘twisting’ those long ties up around your face & neck, essentially a hoodie \/ or . . . letting them fly free, as you ran, if you were feeling less furtive, and more . . playful !!<\/p>\n
\nnote:<\/strong> if you collect Americana, esp early handkerchiefs !! you will be familiar with this . . . early “percursor to true lace’.(the exhibit catalog.)
\nyou can even sometimes find this ‘cutwork’, though it’s rare . . embellishing old (fancy) quilt borders.<\/p>\n![\"\"](\"http:\/\/www.artloversnewyork.com\/zine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/lace-ruffle-collar-Threads-of-power-BGCG.jpg\")
<\/a>
\nthroughout the exhibit . . are colorful examples of the actual lace-work in question – in ‘play’, through paintings, facsimiles, & then archival photographs, as when we approach the modern era.
\nI’ve always been fascinated by these huge ‘ruffle’ collars, esp through Shakespearean era portraits & Elizabeth I.<\/p>\n
\nAt the turn of the seventeenth century, deeply fluted millstone collars trimmed with expensive cutwork or lace were the height of fashion, requiring laborious laundering, setting, and starching.”
\n~exhibition text <\/p>\n![\"\"](\"http:\/\/www.artloversnewyork.com\/zine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/ruffle-and-collar-Threads-of-power-Lace-BGCG.jpg\")
<\/a>
\nso this<\/strong> actual artifact – was a real eye-opener !!!!!
\ntalk about . . . infra-structure !! <\/p>\n
\nFlanders, Southern Netherlands \/ second quarter of the 17th century \/ Linen
\nTextilmuseum St. Gallen, 00604<\/p>\n![\"\"](\"http:\/\/www.artloversnewyork.com\/zine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/Threads-of-Power-Lace-at-the-BGCG.jpg\")
<\/a>
\nbottom display case:
\n“Bartolmeo Danieli published four lace pattern books between 1610 and 1641.<\/strong>
\nDesigning suitable patterns for needle & bobbin laces required specialized knowledge, and the fact that Daniele was himself a lacemaker comes through clearly in his intricate designs for scalloped lace borders featuring floral & foliate motifs, flowerpots, and birds. Danieli’s volumes cotain plates made with an etching needle, a departure from the typical woodblock prints of other pattern books . . . ”
\n~exhibition note<\/p>\n![\"\"](\"http:\/\/www.artloversnewyork.com\/zine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/detail-Bartolomeo-pattern-Threads-of-power-Bard-Graduate-Center-Gallery-.jpg\")
<\/a>
\ndetail: actual, original, archival . . . BARTOLMEO DANIELI lace pattern book.<\/p>\n
![\"\"](\"http:\/\/www.artloversnewyork.com\/zine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/Threads-of-Power-Bard-Graduate-center-gallery.jpg\")
<\/a>![\"\"](\"http:\/\/www.artloversnewyork.com\/zine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/REI-KWAKABO-Comme-des-garcons-lace-dress-BGCG.jpg\")
<\/a>